A Labrynthine Seascape

Halong Bay, Vietnam, March 31st - April 1st ~ According to legend, Halong Bay was formed when a gigantic dragon plunged into the Gulf of Tonkin, lashing its tail and creating a beautiful and bizarre seascape of more than  2,000 islets. (Ha long translates into descending dragon.) Geologists attribute the pinnacle-shaped limestone and dolomite outcroppings scattered throughout the 580-sq.-mile bay to selective erosion over the millennia, though I'm partial to the dragon theory.

We rose early and were transported 4-5 hours by crowded van to the bay's edge, where we boarded an 11-guest cabin Indochina junk. Originally used throughout Asia for extensive ocean voyages, these ancient Chinese sailing ships are most often found in China. Like many others dotting the tranquil waters, the sails of our boat remained stowed as we motored along.

We were ushered onto a smaller wooden boat that delivered us to what would be home for the next 24 hours. Once we boarded the junk, the smaller boat was tethered to the stern. It would serve as kitchen prep space, a place for the young crew to hang out at night, and the means by which we were transported to a kayak dock and cave.

Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of the world. The fascinating outcrops, isolated grottos, dramatic caves and occasional sandy shore make this a magical, surreal place. Mother Nature's mysterious beauty is evident everywhere.

So is mankind's. Areas of the bay are littered with trash; a latex glove floats by, plastic water bottles bob on the surface, food scraps, bits of rope and netting, package wrappers, paper and other debris tarnish its waters. The disrespect for the environment and the marine and water fowl reliant upon these waters was staggering. Given the extraordinary majesty of this place -- and on a purely practical level, the bourgeoning tourist business reliant on Halong Bay and it's magnificent outcroppings -- I would think the junk cruise companies would partner with the government on cleanup and preservation initiatives.

Despite our frustration over the pollution, we enjoyed our time on the water, kayaking with others on the cruise, learning tai chi at sunrise, "squid fishing" under the moonlight (a truly hilarious sight) and exploring caves. It was a long way to travel for a brief stay, but worth the effort.

Here, some of the prettiest shots I have in the clean depths of the bay.

Heading out into Halong Bay.

Limestone and dolomite outcroppings after the sunset.

We were blessed with a clear day. Evidently, the bay can often be overcast.

 

The karst topography is the result of millions of years of selective erosion.

Two outcroppings in their own right.

Twilight on the junk.

A junk identical to ours.

Floating kayak dock.
(Told that Richard and I would share a boat, I thought of my parents' own double kayak excursion.)

Eve, this one's for you.

Fishing boats.

Fisherwoman.

Couple fishing for prawns, squid, crabs and fish.

Removing the afternoon's catch from a handmade net.

Richard at the opening of one of several caves we explored.

We emerged from the pitch blackness of the cave to discover this small lake in the interior of an outcropping.